From Swank to Hippie in four short hours
July 24, 2005Byron Bay, NSW, Australia
7:50am
At this very moment I can hear the hungover murmur from all the kids up late partying last night. Why they are up I have no idea. Maybe they have yet to go to bed. Our complex is riddled with them, and last night after the festival, the woo hooing continued well into the wee hours in the morning. At one point, amidst the continual kidney shaking bass thumping from the apartment below us, an argument broke out between a guy and his girlfriend. I assume it was his girlfriend, because this dude was so mad his Australian accent sounded Irish, and only a drunken girlfriend can make a 25 year old that mad. He swore with such intense spittle, it made me uncomfortable, thinking that the sick sound of slap on flesh was about to accompany the bass. Alas, all I heard was the word fuck over and over again, descending down the volume level until he was almost whispering and I was almost asleep again. It was amazing how loud it was at one in the morning and then how quiet it was at four in the morning. I guess the drugs had worn off by then.
Yesterday we walked to Tallow Beach. The path to the beach is about a kilometre long, winding through a National Park that starts at the dead end of a neighbourhood road. About fifty different birds greet you at the beginning of the path, almost as loud as last night’s techno music. Hud dillied. Hud dallied. So about four hours later we made it to the actual beach. There was a river tributary so Hud immediately shed his shoes and shorts and began running through the shallow water. The tide was out so the river was up only to his thighs at the deepest point. There was a similar tributary in Cairns so this seemed very familiar for Hud, as he laughed and ran. Laughing simply because he was running.
Sadly, the running had to stop as an elderly fellow walking the beach informed us that river was actually an outflow for sewage. Nice.
The beach is beautiful. And the surf much more violent than the lazy lapping water in North Queensland. I am talking six or seven foot swells breaking in the centre, like a big foamy mouth chomping down on a cheeseburger. We walked down the beach a little and found a spot against the dunes and let Hud play with his sand toys. Two guys and a girl were just down the beach from us and I noticed they were standing on the dune and looking out at the water with a certain intent. I looked out myself and saw the black hump break the water and disappear again. Yep. A whale. I quickly boosted Steph and Hud up on the dune and they watched until the whale, or maybe even two, made a number quick appearances. A man walking down the beach informed us the whales were humpback and I remember reading in one of thousand brochures that this stretch of ocean was part of both the humpback and right whale’s life route.
So wild humpback whales. Check.
We also watched as three people next to us, changed clothes and jumped into the gnarly surf. I was immediately envious of their body surfing and general water playing. I had only brought pants, not knowing what to expect. The water here is about 70 degrees, which locals think is freezing and I think is manageable. I will be prepared the next trip to the beach. Steph did catch me trying to get a glimpse of the girl changing back into her clothes. I was doing the ol’ stare out the side of my sunglasses bit that all closet voyeurs try every once in a while. I quickly claimed I was watching Hud play along the edge of the dune, but secretly felt embarrassed for trying to catch a glimpse of a rocking set of boobs. Yes, I am 35 years old.
After the beach we came back to our apartment for lunch. Peanut butter and jam and cut up carrots, celery and red peppers. Hud seemed on the verge of nap so we tried to lay down with him, but no way, he wanted none of it, so we hopped in the car to get our big grocery order out of the way. Two minutes later, Hud fell asleep. We just shook our heads. What can you do? We ended up putting him one of the shopping carts with a couple of sweatshirts and the whole shopping experience was suddenly very peaceful and unhurried. Hud woke up right at the end and was much calmer after even only a 30-minute nap. We walked to the information centre to try to find out which was the best surf school. We found a couple that looked ok, and Steph will do the legwork on Monday as everything will be closed today. Also everything will calm down a bit once the festival is over and all the dread heads and rock and roll freaks have gone back to their city caves.
Holy macaroni. I am 35 years old.
Love to all,
J.
July 23, 2005
Byron Bay, New South Wales, Australia
7:23am
Bunch of gull darn hippies I tells ya.
We booked this portion of our trip sometime back in March. Online, of course and because it is low season we were able to secure a reasonable price for the three week duration of our stay. Faith, the owner of our apartment (which is totally nice) accepted our deposit gladly, happy to receive income for this time of year.
Initially we were having trouble getting people to commit to our time period in Byron, as the Splendor in the Grass festival announces their dates some time in April, and all the residents were holding off any confirmations until the date was announced. We had no idea what type of festival this was. Perhaps it was Whitman, or just a poetry festival, or some sort of tribute to the Redford/Wood movie in the sixties. We were clueless. Everyone who had been to Byron described it is as beautiful and full of backpackers. So even Faith, her name now ironic, came back to us in April and asked us if we could arrive on the Monday as she could charge for one weekend what we were paying for one week. We said sorry lady, we booked our trip around our three weeks in Byron, and besides why should we suffer because you were eager to get a long-term stay in your apartment.
So with that said, we arrived yesterday after a four-hour drive from Noosa, to be stuck in traffic on the long road approaching Byron. What we were able to find out getting a coffee in Noosa is that Splendor in the Grass festival is a huge music festival drawing the likes of Coldplay and Franz Ferdinand in the past, and Queens of the Stone Age and Moby this weekend. So needless to say the crowd, which I am guessing arrived from both Brisbane (2.5 hours away) and even Sydney (10 hours away) has infiltrated this relatively small town like ants at a picnic.
So finally we made it to our apartment. It is about three kilometers from the Byron CBD and a supposed 10-15 minute walk from Tallow Beach, a smaller beach away from the main drag in Byron. Our apartment is a clean one bedroom, open concept little number with a good size balcony over looking the street below. It is in a small complex with other similar apartments and two story townhouses lining the perimeter. Faith was pleasant and did not bring up the loss she was incurring by letting her apartment out to us. I of course, projected this hag of a lady, face all squirreled up, exulting how we were costing her money to stay here. I have a tendency to project anxious and uncomfortable moments about the smallest of things. I worry about parking spots, whether or not we are going to get a good spot at the beach, how crowded theatres are, and if the places we have booked are going to be rat infested little skank holes with gun toting neighbours. This of course has never happened, every rental has been gorgeous. I am fine once everything is underway, and it does not stop me from doing anything (which I hope will continue, agoraphobia never seemed that weird to me), so once I realized that Faith was a very pleasant and grateful woman, I settled down nicely.
I am actually quite happy about out place and its just-down-the-road location. Especially after going to Byron last night to pick some groceries and get a general feel for the town. It is about the size of Huntsville, or at least the downtown of Huntsville. It is dappled with the now familiar information centres and tour booking shops. But this is a party town, no doubt about it. There were a number of different and huge bars that look like a lot of fun. Fun if I was here with Mike and Sam, my brave party leaders, charming through crowds and up to the bar. And this particular weekend, the bars were packed at 5:00pm. The festival does not actually begin until today, so everyone was arriving and plying themselves with fast lovely pints. By everyone I mean thousands of hippies and alternative rockers between the ages of 18 and 28. So patchouli (no idea how to spell it) and pot are present and accounted for.
Byron is also a surf town, so there are a plethora of surf shops and surf wear shops. Steph and I are hoping this will be the place where we will try to learn how to surf. There are a number of places offering lessons. What I want to do is hire someone to teach Steph and I together, and we can alternate the actual surfing, while the other stays near Hud, who during the lesson on the sand, will entertain himself. Anyway, cost will determine if that indeed is possible. Cost and maximum wetsuit size availability.
To me the best part of last night was walking to main beach at sunset and watching the surfers, lots of surfers, ride the swells into the waiting beach. They looked like seals, peppered in the water, waiting for the next set. The sun was of course red and stunning and it added to the surfer allure and mystique.
However crowded, the energy is good here. This place is the beacon for alternative lifestyle choice, and however commercial that has become, it still is closer to me than the swank that Noosa was. So we shall see how we all adjust here. Hud could not care less where he is. We pulled a futon mattress in from the living room and put in the corner, so at least he will not be in same bed. He is really starting to enjoy his independence, so I was a little concerned he would be miffed that he doesn’t have his own room. But again my concern was alleviated by his goofy grin and head hug. And with Hud sleeping in the same room for us, the bonus for me comes in two words: Couch sex. Meow.
So last night we rented a bunch of movies, and bought some right away groceries. Hud fell asleep watching The Rescuers and I fell asleep watching Suspect Zero. Steph made it all the way through which is impressive as it was a thriller with scary music. She turns the volume down as she says it’s the music that actually scares her, not the bloody scenes.
Today we will walk to the beach just to see how long it will take. We have a car until Tuesday and we are desperate to not have to rent one for the remaining time her in Byron. Bikes maybe, but hopefully no car.
In other good news, I have slowly started writing my novel again. I had finished a chapter in the last days in Cairns, and started a new one in Noosa, the mild booze buzz the instigator.
I am writing as Dexter again. Dex is my favourite.
Love to all
J.
July 21, 2005
9:55pm.
Noosa Heads, Qld, Australia
So it’s torment I am allowed now. Welcome to the next stage of my life. Thanks for coming. Try the veal.
I appreciate all the kind, familiar, secretive comments and e-mails regarding the angst-ridden post from a couple of days ago. I am now on the balcony of our self-contained apartment in Noosa Heads, a highbrow beach community serving random tourists and Brisbane money regulars. This is our last night here before heading off to the eastern most part of Australia, Byron Bay. Here was just a stopover, a replacement for what initially was supposed to be Brisbane. We thought to hell with a city, go north young man, and spend a trio of days in a restaurant laden beach town swaddled in resorts and mid range self contained apartments. If I told you how much we are spending for this place you may choke on your peanuts and raisins, but alas, we do love the luxury and I do love the drama.
Yesterday was spent getting to know the area through information brochures and very short and wrinkly information booth ladies. We walked the walk and saw all the t-shirt places intermingled with the boutique child fashion stores. Later on Hud and I spent some quality time playing with helicopters and planes as Steph searched for a gift for her mother’s upcoming birthday. Dinner was steaks on the bbq as we all soaked in the mini hot tub near the designated grilling area. Hud fell asleep on time and Steph and I submerged ourselves in crime drama television. Sleep was restless and dream filled.
This morning we bolted off to the Australia Zoo. This is the home zoo of the crocodile hunter Steve Irwin, so we were pretty stoked to say crikey over and over again. It was a great zoo with interaction all over the place. Lets see….Hud fed an elephant, a goat and a kangaroo. Pretty awesome stuff for an almost three year old.
We left around 2:30 and made it home for a couple of naps and a really ordinary self-service episode. I tell you this cause I love you. I really really love you.
We went out for dinner as we were under budget. We all had pasta, some creamy, some meaty and then made out way back to our 2000 square foot apartment to bask in our life all over again. Hud took awhile to go to bed, but after, Steph and I sat on the balcony and analyzed my battles and my wars between sips of Shiraz and Coopers Sparkling Ale. I slipped out for a pack of butts as it’s been three weeks and that seems to be my pattern. I praise the patience of my wife, but dislike her stubborn whiteness. We had a good chat though and my love for her remains intense and stupid.
As I said to her between sips of my beer in a wine glass, I am glad my little (or big) clouds of anxiety are happening now and not in at the end of our trip. Maybe this hopeful metamorphosis of Jason is just at the beginning, and the answers will start to fill in like pouring mercury on a flat surface. Perhaps I am that spread out. Perhaps I am complete, just in quiet blobs, waiting to suck together. Oh feh. Maybe the answer sits in the bottom of this glass.
This beautiful beautiful glass.
Love to all,
J.
posted by Jason @ 12:22 AM
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